Glossary

The soft undercoat of the cashmere goat (Capra hircus laniger), primarily raised in Mongolia, China, and Iran. Cashmere is graded by fineness (micron), length (staple), and colour. Mongolian cashmere is generally considered among the highest grades.

The first fleece combed from a cashmere goat in its first year of life. Rare (~30 g per animal), extremely fine (typically under 13.5 micron), and significantly softer than adult cashmere.

Fibre sheared from domestic sheep. Merino is the finest and most widely used for apparel, with grades from 17 micron (superfine) to 23+ micron (medium). Unlike cashmere, sheep wool has pronounced crimp, giving it elasticity and memory.

Fibre combed from the double-coated Bactrian camel during its spring moult. Warm, with a distinctive tan-to-brown natural colour range. Typically 16–19 micron in premium grades. Rarely dyed because its natural tones are part of its appeal.

The soft down fibre combed from domesticated Himalayan yaks. Similar fineness to cashmere (15–20 micron) with exceptional thermal properties. Naturally available in browns, greys, and near-black. An emerging premium fibre.

A protein fibre produced by silkworms. Often blended with cashmere to add lustre, strength, and fluidity. Common in fine-gauge knits and lightweight fabrics.

Fibre from the South American alpaca, similar to fine wool but with less crimp and more lustre. Naturally available in a wide colour range. Used for knitwear and heavy outerwear.

Fibre from the Angora goat. Long, lustrous, and silky; often used in blends for a brushed, airy surface. Kid mohair from young animals is the softest grade.

The standard unit for fibre diameter, measured in thousandths of a millimetre. Lower micron = finer, softer fibre. Premium cashmere is typically 14.5–16.5 micron; merino wool is 17–23 micron.

The length of an individual fibre, measured in millimetres. Longer staples produce stronger yarns with less pilling. Mongolian cashmere typically has a 38–42 mm staple.

The natural wave or curl of a fibre. Sheep wool has strong crimp, giving it loft and elasticity; cashmere has much less. Crimp affects yarn bulk, memory, and drape.

The tactile quality of a fibre or fabric — how it feels in the hand. Subjective terms like soft, crisp, dry, fluid, or papery are used to describe it. Hand is influenced by fibre, twist, and finish.

The thickness or “spring” of a fibre or fabric when at rest. High-loft materials feel airy and insulating. Cashmere is inherently lofty due to its hollow fibre structure.

The washing process that removes grease, dirt, and impurities from raw fibre before further processing. Specialised for cashmere because its lanolin and soil content differ from sheep wool.

The mechanical process of separating the soft down fibre from coarser guard hair. Critical for cashmere — the finished product should be 100% down, with guard hair below 0.5%.

Traditional Mongolian method of gathering cashmere: fibre is combed by hand from the goat during the spring moult, rather than sheared. Preserves staple length and animal welfare.

The metric yarn count: the number of 1,000-metre lengths per kilogram of yarn. Higher Nm = finer yarn. Common cashmere counts: Nm 12/1 (heavier, singles), Nm 2/26 (two-ply fine-gauge).

The number of individual yarns twisted together. Single-ply (1) is one strand; two-ply (2) is two strands twisted together for strength and balance; multi-ply combines three or more.

The number of turns per metre given to a yarn during spinning. Higher twist = harder, stronger, less hairy yarn; lower twist = softer and more voluminous. Expressed in turns per metre (TPM) and direction (S-twist or Z-twist).

A spinning method where fibres are combed parallel before spinning, producing smooth, clean yarn with high twist. Ideal for suiting and fine-gauge knits.

A spinning method where fibres are carded but not combed, leaving them aligned in all directions. Produces bulkier, softer, hairier yarn with more loft. Used for flannels, soft knits, and brushed fabrics.

The standard package yarn ships on. A typical cashmere cone holds 0.5–1 kg. Mill-level orders are priced and shipped by cone weight.

The number of needles per inch on a knitting machine. Higher GG = finer knit. 3GG is heavy (chunky cables); 7–10GG is mid-weight (cable knits, outerwear); 12–16GG is fine-gauge (tailored knits, our finest available).

Garments knit to exact shape panel-by-panel (front, back, sleeves) and then linked together. No fabric is cut. Cleaner finish, less waste, but slower and more expensive than cut-and-sew.

A garment knit as a single seamless piece directly on the machine (Shima Seiki technology). No sewing or linking required. Minimal waste, premium finish.

Knitting on machines where needles lie in a flat bed (typically two beds, front and back). Used for shaped pieces, cables, intarsia, and fully-fashioned garments. Stoll machines are the industry standard.

Knitting on machines where needles are arranged in a cylinder, producing a continuous tube. Used for jersey, rib, and interlock fabrics by the metre.

The simplest knit structure — a single plain-knit face. Light, fluid, with distinct front and back. The basis of T-shirts and many knit dresses.

A knit structure alternating vertical columns of knit and purl stitches, creating raised ridges. Stretchy and structured. 1x1, 2x2, 3x3 describe the stitch alternation pattern.

A double-knit structure where two rib fabrics interlock face-to-face. Denser, heavier, and more stable than jersey, with the same face on both sides.

A decorative knit pattern where stitches are crossed over each other to form twisting “ropes.” Traditionally associated with heritage knitwear like Aran sweaters.

A knitting technique that creates multi-colour patterns with blocks of solid colour (no floats on the back). Used for logos, geometric designs, and illustrative motifs. Requires skilled operators or whole-garment machines.

A stranded colourwork technique using two or more colours per row, with unused yarns carried behind the work. Produces small, repeating geometric patterns. Named for the Scottish island.

A production method where flat knitted fabric is produced by the metre and then cut to pattern and sewn into garments — the same way woven fabrics are assembled. Faster but produces more waste than fully-fashioned.

The hand operation that joins knitted panels stitch-by-stitch along their edges. Produces a nearly invisible seam. Skilled linkers are a key craft in quality knitwear manufacturing.

A textured knit with a honeycomb or waffle surface. Denser and more structured than jersey. Traditional fabric for polo shirts.

The set of longitudinal yarns held in tension on a loom, running the full length of the fabric. The warp provides the fabric’s backbone.

The yarns that run crosswise, passed over and under the warp during weaving. Also called the filling.

The simplest weave: each weft yarn passes alternately over and under each warp yarn. Produces a flat, balanced fabric. Used in shirtings and lightweight suitings.

A weave where the weft crosses two or more warp yarns before going under one, creating diagonal ribs. 2/2, 2/1, and 3/1 are common variants. Produces stronger, more drapey fabrics. Used in flannel, gabardine, and denim.

A broken twill where the diagonal pattern reverses direction at regular intervals, producing a distinctive V-shape. A heritage pattern for outerwear and suiting.

A loom technology that allows each warp yarn to be controlled independently, enabling intricate woven patterns. Named after Joseph Marie Jacquard (1804).

A fabric woven with textured, looped yarns that create a bumpy, irregular surface. Associated with Chanel-era tweeds and heritage outerwear.

A soft, brushed or milled fabric — usually a 2/2 twill in wool or cashmere. Raised to produce a slight nap. The classic suiting and trouser fabric.

A fabric woven with two distinct face structures that can be joined or separated. Popular for reversible coats — two usable sides, no lining needed.

A colour matching system (TCX for textiles) widely used in apparel. Custom Pantone matching allows brands to specify exact colours outside the mill’s standard palette.

A small test sample dyed to match a target colour reference. Approved by the buyer before bulk dyeing. Typically requires 2–3 weeks turnaround.

A batch of fibre or yarn dyed together in a single run. Two dye lots of the same colour can vary slightly — production orders should specify whether garments must be cut from a single lot.

A fabric’s resistance to colour change when exposed to washing, light, rubbing, and sweat. Tested and rated on a 1–5 scale per ISO and AATCC methods.

A finishing process where fabric is agitated in warm water to cause controlled shrinkage and felting. Produces a denser hand and cleaner surface. Standard for flannels and double-face wools.

A finishing process using fine wire teeth to raise fibres on the fabric surface, producing a soft, fuzzy nap. Used on flannel, fleece, and soft cashmere fabrics.

The process of mechanically interlocking fibres through heat, moisture, and agitation — producing a stiff, dense, non-woven fabric. Wool and cashmere felt readily; silk does not.

Minimum Order Quantity. The smallest production run the mill will accept. Our garment MOQs typically start at 50 units per colour per size; yarn MOQs start at 100 kg per colour; fabric MOQs at 200 m per colour.

A detailed document specifying everything needed to produce a garment: measurements, construction notes, trim specifications, stitch diagrams, composition, care labels, and packaging. Supplied by the buyer or produced in collaboration with our design team.

Original Equipment Manufacturer. The mill produces to the buyer’s specification — the buyer supplies the tech pack, branding, and design. We manufacture to that spec.

Original Design Manufacturer. The mill co-develops the design with the buyer, from sketch or brief through to production. Common for clients who don’t have in-house design capacity.

A production model where the mill manufactures to the buyer’s brand specification — labels, packaging, care tags, and country-of-origin compliance all under the buyer’s brand name.

International trade terms defining responsibility for shipping, customs, and insurance. Common terms: FCA (Free Carrier — buyer handles export), FOB (Free on Board — seller delivers to port), DDP (Delivered Duty Paid — seller handles everything).

The time between a confirmed order and shipment. Typical mill lead times: yarn 4–6 weeks; knitwear and woven fabrics 6–8 weeks; custom programmes 10–14 weeks including sampling.

The iterative process of producing test samples before bulk production. Typically includes yarn cones, fabric swatches, fit samples, and pre-production samples. Each round adds 2–4 weeks.

The Mongolian national standard for cashmere manufacturing, issued by MASM (Mongolian Agency for Standardization and Metrology). Covers fibre quality, processing, and finished product requirements. A mark of authentic Mongolian cashmere production.

Forest Stewardship Council. Certifies that paper and wood products come from responsibly managed forests. We use FSC-certified packaging for all shipments.

A certification testing textiles for harmful substances (formaldehyde, heavy metals, allergenic dyes). Used across the apparel industry as a baseline safety standard. Available on request for specific orders.

Sustainable Fibre Alliance. A global NGO promoting sustainable cashmere production. Their Clean Fibre Standard covers herd management, animal welfare, and land stewardship.

Documentation linking finished products back to their origin fibre lots. Our traceability system tracks cashmere from the cooperative and season of collection through spinning, knitting, and finishing.

Global Recycled Standard. A certification for recycled content in textiles, including tracking, processing, and chemical use. Available for yarn and fabric programmes using recycled cashmere or wool.