Capabilities
Production Process
Seven controlled stages from raw fibre to finished product
Every cashmere product we manufacture passes through seven carefully controlled production stages. Each stage is monitored for quality, consistency, and adherence to the standards our partners expect. From the moment raw fibre arrives at our facility to the final packaged product, nothing is left to chance.
Every machine on the floorFibre Selection & Sorting
Raw cashmere arrives at our facility directly from Mongolian herding cooperatives. Each batch undergoes rigorous intake assessment to ensure only fibres meeting our quality threshold enter the production line.
- Fineness testing on Mesdan Lab instruments (target 15.5–16.5 micron)
- Staple length verification for optimal spinning performance
- Colour sorting into natural white, beige, brown, and grey grades
Spinning
Sorted fibres are processed into yarn across a range of counts and constructions. Our spinning facility runs single-ply and two-ply constructions, with precise tension and twist control throughout.
- Standard yarn counts: cashmere Nm 26/2, 14.5/1, 16/1 · sheep wool Nm 12/1, 14.5/1, 16/1 · camel and yak Nm 12/1, 14.5/1, 16/1, 22/2
- Cashmere is spun two-ply and singles; sheep wool is spun singles only; camel and yak run single-ply or two-ply
- Continuous tensile strength and evenness monitoring
- Savio winding and spinning lines with Bigagli fine-fibre spinning — even-twist, low-pilling yarn across cashmere and blends
Dyeing
Our on-site dyeing facility offers 81 standard colourways with full custom Pantone matching capability. Carefully-controlled batches ensure colour consistency while minimising fibre stress.
- 81 standard colours plus custom Pantone matching
- 100 kg minimum per colour, per material — a dye lot is a single fibre, and splits freely across several designs
- Raw fibre alone can be dyed from 25 kg — but that fibre stays fibre, since the spinning lines run 100 kg batches
- Fibre-protective dye chemistry to preserve handle and softness
- PDM dyeing machinery, engineered for delicate protein fibres
Knitting
Two specialist platforms cover every knitwear format we produce — from fully-fashioned shaped knits to seamless whole-garment construction. Each machine is calibrated per yarn count to deliver consistent stitch density and tension.
- Stoll flat knitting for fully-fashioned garments and intarsia patterns
- Shima Seiki whole-garment technology for seamless construction
- Knitting gauges 3GG, 5GG, 7GG, 12GG, 16GG across cashmere, sheep wool, camel, and yak
Weaving
Our weaving floor produces the woven fabrics that knitwear can't deliver — shirting, throws, blankets, and structured upholstery. Each loom is dressed for the project at hand, with warp tension and reed selection matched to the weight class.
- Shirtings, jerseys, twills, and double-cloth throws across cashmere and blends
- Widths from 120 cm to 150 cm depending on construction
- Warp preparation, weaving, milling, and finishing all under one roof
- Itema rapier weaving, including the Somet Alpha PGA — its universal gripper carries different weft materials and counts into the same cloth
Quality Control
Every product undergoes a comprehensive testing protocol before it is approved for finishing. Our QC procedures are aligned with international textile testing standards and with MNS 6809:2019 for knitted and woven finished goods and MNS 5820:2007 for cashmere yarn.
- Colourfastness testing: wash resistance and rubbing
- Dimensional stability and shrinkage measurement after washing
- Final visual inspection for defects, stitch uniformity, and construction accuracy
- Mesdan Lab instruments on every batch — yarn count, twist, evenness and strength, alongside fibre fineness and length at intake
Finishing & Packaging
Every piece is finished in our own department in Ulaanbaatar, and nothing at this stage is outsourced. Finishing is one stage of the seven, but it runs to nine separate operations — and which of them a piece takes depends on its construction: woven cloth is finished as a piece, before it is cut and made up, while knitwear is finished as a completed garment.
- Piece route — woven cloth, for scarves, shawls, throws and coating. Corino open-width handling carries the cloth through wet processing at minimal tension; fulling and washing on Zonco and Famit mill and scour it to build density and handle; then controlled drying, held below the point at which over-drying would harden the handle
- Raising on Lafer lifts the fibre ends out of the body of the cloth. Brushing then lays them in one direction — worked wet first, which loses less good fibre than working dry alone, followed by a dry pass to refine the lie and clear what is loose. Shearing on Mario Crosta crops the pile to an even height. Run where the construction calls for it: a brushed flannel takes this route, a flat twill is finished without it
- Decatizing and setting on KD Biella — steam under controlled pressure fixes the cashmere’s lustre and handle and takes out the residual shrinkage, so the cloth holds its measurements afterwards
- Cutting to finished dimensions, then a final press on a horizontal bed
- Garment route — knitwear. Washing and extraction on Electrolux Professional and Oasis, gentle tumble drying on Oasis and Sen Joung, then steaming and pressing on Jiangxin-generated steam to relax the knit, lift its loft and hold the measurements it was specified to
- Fully-fashioned knitwear is shaped on the machine, so it is neither cut nor decatized — those two operations belong to cloth
- Custom labelling (brand, care, composition) and responsibly sourced packaging
Discuss Your Project
Our production team is ready to walk you through each stage and tailor a manufacturing plan for your brand.